Azalea Leaf Gall

Galls on azalealeaves

    The warm, wet spring has been ideal conditions for leaf gall in azaleas. Leaf gall is a common fungal disease found on azaleas.  The leaf gall of azaleas is caused by the fungus, Exobasidum yaccinii.  Another fungus, Exobasidium camelliae, causes a similar problem in camellias. It occurs more commonly on the fall blooming ‘sasanqua’ varieties.

    This disease appears early in the spring. The new leaves and buds that are infected develop distorted growth. The leaves become thickened, curled, and pale green to white and in some cases pink. Leaves can be ten times thicker than normal leaves. The infected leaves are covered with a white powdery substance in the latter stages of the disease. Galls eventually turn brown and harden as the season progresses.

   Fundal spores overwinter in the bark. When the buds open in the spring, the spores are blown by the wind to the plant. Rain can also wash spores from the bark to the plant tissue. Spores need moisture to germinate. Plants that are grown in areas of poor air movement, deep shade, and high humidity are more likely to be infected.   After the plant is infected, the fungus stimulates a growth promoting process which causes the thickening and distortion of the plant.

   There are some varietal differences among azaleas in susceptibility.  Reported resistant varieties include: Gloria, Sensation, Coral Bells, Mrs. G. G. Gerbing, Sunglow, and Formosa.

   The disease usually does not do enough damage to require chemical control. If only a few plants are affected, prune the galls of the plant and throw them in the trash.  If the same plants get infected year after year then might be chemical control necessary.   Begin treat with captan, mancozeb, or triadimefon fungicide sprays starting wien the young leaves begin to unfurl then every 10 14 days after that until the young leaves mature. 

    Another procedure for controlling azalea leaf gall on badly diseased plants is to cut plants back severely. This is a good sanitation procedure and is a good way to reduce disease occurrence the following season because galls will be removed along with the pruned branches. It is also advisable to replace mulch beneath such plants since this will insure that fallen galls beneath plants will be removed.

Pruning Azaleas

     Azaleas are widely planted in Mississippi because of the colorful flowers they produce from late March through May.

      Pruning your azaleas can improve their blooming and help them develop into full, well-branched shrubs.  In many cases it is necessary to cut azaleas back severely because the wrong size variety was plant for the available site.

     If you need to prune your azaleas, do this in late spring or early summer, shortly after flowering stops, because azaleas set their flower buds for next year during the late summer.

 

     Remove shaded-out branches first, since these often become dead wood. Older plants may have tall leggy branches that need to be removed. Doing so gradually over several years reduces shock to the plant.

     Azaleas should be pruned several times during the growing season to develop a well branched plant. This involves pruning of the tips of the new, individual branches after five or six inches of new growth has been produced. This pruning not only results in a compact, well branched plant, but also one that will produce many more blooms than will plants not pruned in this manner.

    Pruning your azaleas correctly can keep them looking healthy and blooming strong!

Hummingbird Garden Quick Guide

Spring has sprung and every gardener is trying to attract those beautiful hummingbirds to their garden.  Hummingbirds spend much of their time darting from flower to flower in search of nectar and small insects to eat so to attract and keep them in your garden you need to make sure they have something to eat.  'Hummers' drink from any color blossom but seem to prefer brightly colored, tubular flowers. Plan your landscape to provide flowers continuously throughout the growing season for these entertaining nectar sippers!  

 

Some favorite hummingbird plants include:

 Bee Balm                      Monarda spp                      perennial

Begonia                          Begonia spp                      annual

Butterfly Bush                 Buddleia davidii                 perennial

Cardinal Flower               Lobelia cardinalis             perennial

Hibiscus                          Hibiscus spp                     annual

Impatiens                        Impatians spp                   annual

Lantana                           Lantana spp                     annual/perennial

Petunia                           Petunia spp                       annual

Phlox                              Phlox spp                          annual/perennial

Hollyhock                        Althea spp                        shrub 

Salvia                             Salvia spp                         annual/perennial

Trumpet Creeper           Campsis radicans             vine

Trumpet Honeysuckle   Lonicera semipevirens      vine

 

Do:

·       Fill the feeder with a cool mixture of 1 part white sugar dissolved in 4 parts boiling water. Store extra solution in the refrigerator.

·       Clean the feeder regularly - every 3 days or so in hot weather - to prevent mold from growing in the sugar solution.

·      Hang the feeder in March and leave it up until at least October or year-round in southern part of state.

 

Do Not:

·         Do not add red coloring to the sugar solution.

·         Do not use a sugar substitute or honey to make the sugar solution.

·         Do not hang feeder in full sun - the solution will spoil more quickly.

 

Remember - keeping feeders up throughout the winter will not prevent hummingbirds from migrating and but will increase your chances of seeing a rare species of hummingbird!

Bold, Beautiful Containers

      You can provide eye candy to your landscape with bold, beautiful containers that showcase plants with attractive flowers and foliage.

Hot pot!

     Use the guideline “thrillers, spillers, and fillers” when choosing plants.  With thrillers, don’t be afraid to go wild with color. Incorporate bright flowering plants or the large, colorful foliage of plants like coleus or crotons.  Ornamental grasses can also work well.

      Spillers are plants that fall gracefully over the sides of the containers such as brightly colored sweet potato vines.

       And for fillers, consider plants with rounded forms or interesting textures such as caladiums or celosia.

     Select containers to complement the plants, and keep in mind how the containers will be viewed.  Use a high-quality potting media, and match plants with similar moisture, soil, and light requirements. And of course, always leave room for the plants to grow to their full size!

Mulch Madness is Here!

Do not create 'mulch volcanos'

            March Madness is now beginning.   ‘Mulch Madness’ should be full swing and continue through the spring and into the summer.  Mulching in and around our flowers and trees is nothing new, but every year we have choices of what type of mulch to use.  Everyone knows how mulches retain moisture, act as a weed barrier, warm the soil in the winter, and cool the soil in the summer.  Mulches however can be a decorative aspect also, so why not pick one that coordinates with your house.

  In our region the most commonly used mulches are pine straw, pine bark, cypress bark, and hardwood bark.  These brown-colored mulches look great with homes that have a brick or stone façade.  These organic materials are readily available and when freshly applied make a planting look neat and nice.  Being organic though means that they have to be replaced almost annually.  When using hardwood mulch, make sure the bark has been composted. 

            There has been somewhat of a trend for red-dyed wood mulches.  Red-dyed mulches provide a splash of color but these bursts of color compete for attention with the plantings and the house.  Additionally this type of mulch can leave a pinkish hue on your concrete after a rainfall.

            As for as inorganic mulches go, gravel is good for several house types.  Dark beach pebbles or ground brick look good with homes covered with stucco.  Japanese garden-style pea gravel fits nicely with homes with a modern style of architecture.  Volcanic rocks or slate will accent a neutral colored home.  A house with dark tones can be lightened up with river rocks.

            Something seen at trade shows is colored glass mulch.  These smooth, rounded glass pieces come in colors ranging from clear to shades of green, blue, and pink or whatever the manufacturer chooses to make.  They can be over powering if used in too large an area.

            You might also run across rubber mulch made from recycled car tires.  This mulch can also be colored, but as with the colored glass, a little goes a long way.  The best use for this mulch is around playground equipment to cushion falls of children at play.

            With whichever type of mulch you choose, there are a few basic rules to remember.  Be careful not to get organic mulches up against the foundation of the house so as to not encourage termites.  Apply the organic mulches (barks, straw,) 2 to 4 inches deep.  Inorganic mulches (gravels, glass, rubber) are applied 1 to 2 inches thick.  To improve the effectiveness of inorganic mulches, black plastic or weed-barrier cloth should be applied underneath them.  And all mulches should be kept 2 inches away from the base of trees to prevent decay.