Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Have you noticed that something is eating the leaves off your azaleas? Maybe you have seen an orangish-brown banded moth about 2 inches long flying around them. Azalea caterpillars are showing up on azaleas already this year. The moths are sort of pretty until the lay their 100s of eggs on your favorite azalea and the caterpillars start eating.
Azalea caterpillars primarily attack azaleas. They will however feed on blueberry, viburnums, and apples. This large (2 inches at maturity), strikingly marked caterpillar is an occasional pest of azaleas throughout the South. Newly-hatched azalea caterpillars are yellow with longitudinal reddish stripes, but their appearance changes markedly as they grow. Older caterpillars are black, checkered with yellow or white, and have a reddish-orange head and legs. If you disturb the caterpillars, they will raise their heads and tails raised, creating a broad u-shape. Sort of like they are smiling at you while destroying your plants.
Newly-hatched larvae feed together on the undersides of leaves, causing leaves to look like nets. As larvae get larger, they spread out and feed individually, causing progressively greater amounts of defoliation. Heavy infestations can cause total defoliation of entire plantings of azaleas. A single caterpillar will eat 80 to 90 percent of the total leaf area during the last 3 to 4 days before it forms a pupa. This is why severe defoliation can seem to appear overnight. Plants that appear perfectly fine on Sunday afternoon can be totally defoliated by Wednesday afternoon.
Be alert for early signs of leaf netting caused by the young caterpillars. Early detection and control of young larvae can prevent serious defoliation later. If you find only a few caterpillars, simply remove them by hand. If there are large numbers, you might need chemical controls. Any insecticide labeled for outdoor use will be effective. People wanting to use organic controls should select products containing B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis).
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
Recently I judged the fruit and vegetable entries at the Neshoba County Fair. The cool July allowed for some pretty good produce. The pear entries this year were probably the best I have seen. They all had good size, shape, and color. The only exception to this was an entry where all the fruit was apparently infected with cedar-apple rust. Normally you will see spots on the leaves that look like these. This is the first time I have seen it on fruit.
Friday, May 30, 2014
Talk about a wasted special day! Today is ‘National Water a Flower Day.’ It is celebrated each year on May 30. Anymore rain at my house and I am going to declare ‘Meridian Build a Boat Day! A few days ago the thought of watering my flowers today would have been a good idea, but after 3 days of off and on rain I do not need anymore.
It is probably not the same in other parts of the nation so people need to get up and get to watering. Some people have a garden full of flowers and will not be able to stop with watering just one flower but that is okay. You can also include you indoor plants and flowers on National Water a Flower Day. Okay, thankfully it is not rainy inside my house. Maybe you have a vase full of flowers, this is your reminder to give them fresh water today also.
Today is a fun day; a day to enjoy the happiness that flowers bring to people. It is possible that you know someone that is home-bound, hospitalized, needs some cheering up or that you want to say “thank you” or just to “make someone’s day.” If so, then today would be a great day to take them a bouquet of flowers, but remember to “water the flowers” before you deliver them!
Or if you live somewhere in or in states surrounding Mississippi, just set you flowers outside.
Have a ‘Happy Water a Flower Day!’
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
Shortly after the majesty of the dogwoods fade, another flowering tree blossoms forth seemingly from nowhere. The American fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus), also known as white fringetree, grancy graybeard or old man’s beard, puts out its floral display of masses of white fringe-like flowers after the plant's leaves are about a third grown. The flowers have individual elongated or strap-like petals up to an inch long. The abundance of flowers can be so great that the entire plant can be covered with blooms. An added attraction is that the flowers are fragrant.
Plants generally produce only male or female flowers though some flowers may be bisexual. Male flowers are the largest. The female plants produce dark blue fruits shaped like an olive and can be over an inch long and are borne in large clusters. (The American fringetree is a member of the Olive Family.)
The leaves of the fringetree are large, egg-shaped and over 2 1/2" wide and up to 3-8" long. The tree is deciduous but the leaves can have a nice yellow color in the fall.
This small tree is native from Ohio to over much of the southeastern United States. Mature trees can reach heights of 20 to 30 feet. The tallest tree now known currently is in Texas and is 28 feet tall. The fringe tree is easy to grow. While it prefers full sun, it tolerates full shade too. It also prefers a well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH, but it can adapt to just about any soil type. Pests and diseases rarely bother this tree.
The fringetree has found its way into folk medicine. Preparations made from the bark have been used in the treatment of fevers and as a diuretic. A tincture made from the bark and grain alcohol was used for jaundice. Native Americans used tea made from boiled bark as a topical treatment for skin irritations, cuts and infections.
Finding these trees to put in your landscape can be difficult. Production of container-grown trees is fraught with problems. Rooting of cuttings is nearly impossible. Germination of seeds is difficult due to a double dormancy requiring a warm after-ripening followed by cold stratification. Freezing the seed following the after-ripening period might increase the germination rate. Some nurserymen report poor growth the first year after establishing the seedlings in a container.There has been some success in propagating plants by mounding soil (mound layering) around young multi-stem plants in the spring. That winter the mounded plants are divided. This is a slow way to propagate but it can work.
Sunday, April 20, 2014
As the Easter season begins to wind down you might be thinking about what to do with the Easter Lily that you purchased or were given fo the holiday. After the last bloom has withered and has been cut away, you can continue to grow your Easter Lilies’ outside in your garden to enjoy them for years to come.
To plant your Easter Lilies outside, prepare a well-drained garden bed in a sunny location with rich, organic matter. Good drainage is the key for success with lilies. If necessary, raise the garden bed by adding good soil to the top of the bed to ensure adequate drainage.
Plant the Easter Lily bulb 3 inches deep in the ground. Space the bulbs 12 to 18 inches apart in the garden. Spread the roots and work the prepared soil in around the bulbs and the roots. Water immediately and thoroughly after planting to remove air pockets.
Cut the stems back to the soil surface when the original plants begin to die back. Do not remove the foliage too soon because you will prevent it from storing food reserves. New growth will soon emerge. These Easter Lilies were forced under controlled greenhouse conditions to bloom in March-April, will bloom naturally in the summer. You may be rewarded with a second bloom later this summer, but most likely you will have to wait until next June or July to see them bloom again.